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The Castle of Exilles:
Did the Man in the Iron Mask Really Spend Seven Years Here?

High in the Susa Valley, close to the French border, stands one of Piedmont's most imposing fortresses. For centuries, the Castle of Exilles guarded the route across the Alps. But its most intriguing chapter has little to do with armies.

According to historical records, a mysterious prisoner known as the Man in the Iron Mask was held here between 1681 and 1687.

Exactly who he was remains one of history's enduring mysteries.

The Man in the Iron Mask at Exilles

The mysterious prisoner was a real person, not simply a character invented for a novel or film.

He was arrested in 1669 and spent decades being moved between prisons in France. He was always kept under close guard, and his identity was deliberately concealed.

He became known as the Man in the Iron Mask, although there is considerable uncertainty about what he actually wore. Historical accounts suggest that the famous mask was probably made of black velvet rather than iron.

The prisoner was brought to the Castle of Exilles in 1681 and remained here until 1687.

Exactly who he was remains a mystery.

Over the centuries, historians and writers have suggested various identities, including a secret member of the French royal family. None of the more dramatic theories has been conclusively proved.

What we do know is that a mysterious prisoner was held at Exilles for six years.

That alone is enough to give this mountain fortress an unusual place in history.

A Fortress Guarding the Alps

The story of the Man in the Iron Mask is only one chapter in the long history of Exilles.

The castle occupies a strategically important position above the Susa Valley. Anyone travelling between France and the Italian side of the Alps could pass through this valley, making control of the area extremely important.

A fortress stood here for centuries, with the defenses changing as warfare changed.

The position also meant that Exilles was caught up in the long struggles between the House of Savoy and France. The fortress was attacked, occupied, and modified several times.

In 1796, during Napoleon's Italian campaigns, French forces destroyed much of the old fortress.

But Exilles did not disappear.

The complex was rebuilt during the 19th century, with major reconstruction taking place between 1818 and 1829. The result is the imposing fortress that you see today.

It continued to have a military purpose into the 20th century before eventually losing its strategic role.

The Castle of Exilles Through the Centuries

• 12th century – The fortress becomes part of the defensive system controlling the Alpine route. An early documented construction is associated with the Count of Albon.
• 1681–1687 – The mysterious prisoner later known as the Man in the Iron Mask is held at Exilles.
• 1796 – French forces destroy much of the fortress.
• 1818–1829 – The castle is rebuilt.
• 20th century – It continues to serve military purposes.
• After WWII—Its military role finally comes to an end.
• Today – The fortress is a cultural and historical attraction.

Through the Castle Gates

Walking into Exilles is quite different from visiting one of Italy's grand palaces.

There are no lavish rooms filled with paintings and furniture. This is a fortress, and its architecture reflects its purpose.

Thick stone walls, defensive passages, courtyards, stairways, and old military spaces give the place a very different atmosphere.

The Royal Gate leads into the fortress, while the Cortile del Cavaliere is one of the important spaces within the complex.

For me, the most interesting thing is simply walking through the fortress and thinking about what happened here.

Imagine being imprisoned in this enormous building in the 17th century, with the mountains outside and little idea of when, or if, you would ever be released.

The old prison areas are naturally the parts that attract the most attention from visitors interested in the Man in the Iron Mask. And that's when the history starts to feel much less distant.

All in all, the castle is a great Italian castle and one of the highlights of a Piedmont itinerary.  

Is Exilles Haunted?

It probably comes as no surprise that a fortress with centuries of battles, imprisonment, and a mysterious prisoner has acquired its share of ghost stories.

Local legends have connected the Man in the Iron Mask with the castle long after his death. There are stories of his presence lingering in the old fortress and of strange happenings in its darker corners.

But stand inside the fortress on a misty winter's day, surrounded by enormous stone walls and looking down into the valley, and you can understand why stories like these have survived.

Sometimes the atmosphere of a place is enough. Sometimes you don't need to see a ghost for an old castle to feel a little spooky.

Getting to the Castle of Exilles

Exilles is approximately 75 kilometers west of Turin. By car, the journey takes you through some spectacular Alpine scenery.

The nearest larger town is Susa, which is also worth visiting in its own right. From Susa, you continue west along the valley towards Exilles.

If you are travelling without a car, check current local bus and rail connections before you go. Services in the mountain valleys can be less frequent than you might expect.

What to See Near Exilles

Exilles works particularly well as part of a wider trip through the Susa Valley.

Susa is an obvious stop, with Roman remains, medieval streets, and a long history as an Alpine crossroads.

Sacra di San Michele, dramatically perched on Mount Pirchiriano, is another spectacular destination in the wider Turin area.

You can also continue towards Bardonecchia and the higher Alpine valleys or make the journey towards the French border and the Mont Cenis area.

Opening Hours

For opening hours, as well as information regarding summer events, check out the official Castle of Exilles website: https://www.forteexilles.it/

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